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"The Copper Canyon trip you and Larry led was just outstanding! I can't tell you how much I enjoyed it. It will always be a treasured memory. I've been on many a birding trip, none were better - from Alaska to Australia- Texas to Gran Manan and more.

The trip was well planned, relaxing, marvelous accomodations, food great, especially the mole and the delicious picnics - the awesome boat and train rides, gorgeous scenery, the Tarahumara Indians and their amazing crafts, places of interest, the interesting towns especially Batopilas (fascinating), not to mention birds, birds, birds, just great. Did we happen to see the Eared Quetzal? I forget? HA!

Rochelle, you were so friendly, interesting, helpful, and great to be with!! Continued Happy Adventures!"
J. Christensen

"It was such a wonderful experience in many ways. The beautiful scenery, the lovely Tarahumara people, our crew, and fellow trekkers...I respect and appreciated the way you handled the group." S. Lee

"Thanks for being a 'calm, cool, and collected' tour guide. It was a wonderful trip! Hope to be with you again!" B. Eisman

"It has been an amazing trip on so many different levels! And you made it happen." M. Denzel

"Thanks for the wonderful trip. I went to Copper Canyon from October 18 to October 26, 2003. I have been to Europe a number of times, Hawaii, many times, Mexico several times and numerous cruises but felt the (Tucson Audubon) trip to Copper Canyon almost topped the list. Rochelle did a fantastic job and so did Larry. The ten other people were all very friendly and congenial. Thanks once more!!" E. Phillips

Review: International Birding Trip to Copper Canyon
Laurel Picciurro
Published in the "Vermillion Flycatcher" of Tucson Audubon Society, Volume 48, number 4, December, 2003-January, 2004

While on the Tucson Audubon sponsored Copper Canyon trip with the guides Rochelle Gerratt and Larry Liese, October 18-26, I saw approximately 130 species of birds. Many of these were life birds for me since I had never birded in Mexico before. My favorite birds were the Bare-throated Tiger-Heron; Rufous-bellied Chachalaca, whose cries were often heard; the large flocks of Mexican Parrotlets; Eared Quetzals and the many Social Flycatchers.

But let me back up to the flight from Tucson to Los Mochis, which was uneventful except for deplaning in Hermosillo in order to show our passports and to experience the heat there. After landing in Los Mochis, we were picked up by large station wagons and transported to the small town of El Fuerte. Before dinner at our charming hotel, Rochelle explained the details of the trip including her eventful sentence: “Things are different in Mexico and you have to be flexible and expect anything.” At that moment, the lights went out and we broke out in laughter. No one had thought to bring a flashlight to the table but, after a while, the owner brought in several candles, and replacing a fuse quickly restored electricity. I suspect that most of us turned on the AC in our rooms upon arrival as it was humid, and it overloaded the circuits. A more exciting event awaited us on our return…

We went birding by boat from El Fuerte, which was relaxing as well as fruitful, or should I say "birdful." Seeing a Northern Jacana was a new bird for the group as well as the Red-billed Pigeons, Great Kiskadees, Thick-billed Kingbirds and a Grayish Saltator. It was very peaceful on the river with no motors, and a push with the oars moved us along. On the walk back to town, a beautiful male Painted Bunting made everyone’s day!

The following day we took the Copper Canyon Railway across the beautiful mountain and canyons with a stop at Divisadero to shop for handicrafts made by the Mexicans and the Tarahumara and to admire the spectacular views of Copper Canyon. This is the only stop on the railroad where you can see a small part of the canyons, which is a dizzying view well worth the trip. The train was modern, comfortable, clean (yes, even the restrooms), with delicious food served in the dining car on tables with spotless, white tablecloths.

After a quick overnite in the small town of Creel, we drove down the narrow, winding dirt road to the small town of Batopilas. The road was full of rocks, potholes, washouts and rockslides, but the drivers were extremely cautious and carried us safely to the bottom. On the way down we stopped many times along the way, including one stop to walk to the area of the Cusarare waterfall, hoping to see the Eared Quetzals. As we turned around we heard the sharp cries of these large birds as several came into the pines. After staying a few minutes in the trees, they then flew across the canyon to give us another look at these gorgeous birds. I can’t even begin to describe the beauty of the mountain and canyons as we drove down, the trip probably lasting a total of four hours without birding stops.

The little town of Batopilas is very remote with no modern stores of any type, and phone service came just last year. It’s like stepping back 150 years, but they still have cars; well, actually trucks. Everywhere on the trip were goats, sheep, cows, calves, horses, dogs and chickens in the streets, on the sidewalks and mountains with no seeming ownership. The hotels were attractive, super clean, with electricity, flush toilets and working showers. The food was delicious and varied, like the chicken mole I ordered two times. While in Batopilas, we walked one day to the restored mission church of Satevo built in the 1700s by Franciscans. The knowledgeable and friendly guide, Larry, was there to spot birds and teach us how to identify them. I was very excited when I spied a very large bird on the canyon wall, which turned out to be a black and white goat!

The return trip was along the same route, but while we were eating in the dining car, a lot of bumping and tilting occurred with all of us grabbing for our cokes and glasses on the tables. Then abruptly we came to a halt with our dining car off the tracks! Yes, a derailment! It just happened to be right in front of the town that has a train yard, so in about two hours we were on our way again. It was very exciting with the townspeople watching and the workers running around with notebooks and cameras and finally the equipment to get us back on the track again. The Tarahumara women came around, selling their beautiful baskets wearing their colorful skirts and blouses.

I would like to thank Rochelle and Larry for the memorable nine-day birding trip, which I will remember as a very special one. Maybe I will be able to identify more birds now!

Highlights from the Tucson Audubon Society Belize-Tikal Trip,
February 15-24, 2004
Jeanne Blumberg

As we boarded the plane from Tucson, I couldn't believe that I'd be sleeping in Belize that night. The anticipation of the adventure ahead was high. As we rode along the miles of wetlands to our first destination, Larry Liese, our TAS birding guide extraordinaire, and enthusiastic trip participant spotters gave us all looks at numerous birds such as snail kites, limpkins, a bat falcon, and a bare-throated tiger heron. We were met at the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary by the owner of the lodge, Verna. She gave us a warm greeting. She and her staff made us most welcome, and besides the good home cooking, she gave us some insight into the history of the area. Larry took us on several walks, and my list of "lifers" continued to grow with the likes of the common tody-flycatcher, and melodious blackbird plus views of old favorites like the tricolored herons and black-necked stilts. I savored my new surroundings.

The next day we took a boat trip. What fun! I was impressed with our guide Orlando, who showed us his boat handling skills, as he maneuvered tight turns down the winding river at warp speed. Even more impressive were his plant and animal sightings. We came to a standstill and Orlando said, "What do you think is in that big nest?" It's a jabiru! There was no mistaking the broad flaming red collar. Orlando then gave us repeat performances of his expertise. He stopped at a clump of mangrove, where I could not see a thing, until I peered a few feet into the dark branches. The figures of several boat-billed herons suddenly jumped into view. Wow, what a job of concealment! Our destination was the Lamani Reserve, where I had my first view of a Mayan pyramid, but the sight of a howler monkey family high in the trees is forever embedded in my mind. Two adults were sharing a tender moment with a baby that was perched between them. Each adult extended an arm with one or two fingers that touched, which formed an arch over the baby. How close the bonds were between these adults and the youngster, and how much their behavior resembled our own love for family. During the rest of the day the bird count mounted with sightings of 3 kinds of trogons, masked tityras, white collared seed eaters, and others, and of course, the numerous agouti and green iguanas were a treat. What a day!

Another highlight was the trip to Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. The drive into the area gave us wonderful views of changes in vegetation, and Julio, our guide, continued the botanical theme by acquainting us with many new rain forest plants. Our trek ended with a hike to a lovely series of pools and a waterfall. Larry and others pointed out other goodies including a squirrel cuckoo and another violaceous trogon. I had trouble leaving Larry's spotting scope, as the details of coloring in that bird's feathers were amazing. The surprise of the day though was a troop of coati that crossed the road in front of our bus.

More adventure awaited us at our next stop in Chaa Creek. We had yet another outstanding guide, who amazed me with his instant recognition of bird calls. Miguel had learned them as a child and later matched the bird and its name to the calls. He and Larry took us on several walks through this privately owned preserve. Among the many birds sighted, the spotted wood-quail has got be a stand-out. We also came upon a tiny hummingbird nest with a female on it. Then there was a bird I looked forward to seeing, ever since I signed up for the trip. It's the national bird of Belize and the one that appears on boxes of Fruit Loops--the keel-billed toucan. Every exquisite color and marking on the bill was visible through Larry's scope. This bird is surely a prime example of artistry in nature. The afternoon ended with a short canoe trip up and down a stretch of the Macal River. I shared some special moments with Rochelle and Larry as we made our way past some riffles, which were too difficult to negotiate by paddling. Larry gets an "A" for expertise in getting us past those parts of the stream!

The next stop was Tikal, Guatemala. I had been reading a book about this area, and so was especially awed by the central plaza with its 2 pyramid-temples facing each other. I also enjoyed the walk up one pyramid, where we could look out over the jungle canopy and see the tops of pyramid-temples, which never had been divested of jungle growth. It gave one a sense of what the early explorers in this area must have seen. Our guide, Elias, not only knew the archaeology of the structures, but was also an excellent birder, who managed to lead us in such a way as to avoid large tourist groups. In addtion to the Mayan history, this was without a doubt one super birding area. I won't try to list all the birds we saw, but there were several unique experiences. One was the discovery of a swarm of army ants. Three different species of woodcreepers converged on the site. I was fascinated with how agile the birds were in picking off other insects that were stirred up by the deadly ants. Another was the sight of the majestic orange-breasted falcon, posing regally in full view with the sunlight illuminating its striking plumage. The third sight in my sensory banks was the view of a pair of emerald toucanets in an affectionate display of courting behavior. The male held out an offering of fruit to his partner. Before eating it, she turned it over in her beak a few times, as if to signal her satisfaction with the gift. We all watched enthralled as the procedure was repeated several times.

The last days were spent at Caye Caulker, a laid back island beach resort off the coast of Belize. About half of our group chose to go snorkeling, and the rest of us decided to just relax. I was in the latter group, but I know those who did snorkel out on the coral reef had wonderful views of nurse sharks, manta rays, a moray eel and other brightly colored fish.

In conclusion, I have tried to give some snapshots of what impressed me. I want to thank Rochelle Gerratt and Larry Liese for all their effort in making this an outstanding trip that enriched my life and broadened my horizons. I am a repeat customer and have come to value the adventure and diversity of events in their outings. The combination of being able to experience some of the cultural aspects of a country, as well as the birds and other wildlife, in safe and comfortable, but not pretentious surroundings is for me.

Pottery, Paquimé, Pajaros
Doris and Doug Evans

Okay, so we mixed up a few languages, but the exquisite ollas of Mata Ortiz artisans, the ancient ruins of Paquimé at Casas Grandes, and birding along the way was the mix for a group of nine Tucson Audubon Society adventurers the weekend of April 16 – 18, 2004.

Tour leaders and guides were Rochelle Gerratt, of Nature Treks and Passages and Juan Caicedo, a biologist involved with the Proyecto Corredor Colibrí, the San Pedro watershed conservation project sponsored by the Tucson Audubon Society.

Our van crossed into Sonora, Mexico at Naco and 15 miles later we were at Villa Verde, a major tributary of the Rio San Pedro in Mexico. The Corredor Colibri is working with landowners to protect the riparian habitat, restore native vegetation, and develop economic incentives for conservation. There we enjoyed a pleasant stroll, birding among Vermillion Flycatchers, Gadwalls, Mexican Mallards, Wilson’s and Yellow-rumped Warblers, to name a few. Our early morning departure from Tucson and the fresh air of Villa Verde had us famished, and soon we were sitting down to a home-cooked almuerzo at Rancho El Sahuaro. The members of this family ranch provided us with wonderful comida in their outdoor kitchen/dining area as we birded from our lunch tables.

From there we trekked east along Highway 2, into Chihuahua, then south on Highway 10 through Casas Grandes and into the ejido of Mata Ortiz, arriving just in time to unpack and enjoy dinner at the El Adobe Inn, our home for the next day and a half. Our explorations and experiences in this tiny community could fill volumes, but we’ll force ourselves to be brief.

Mata Ortiz is the famous pottery village where Juan Quezada, some years ago, got the idea of bringing money into the community through the sale of pottery inspired by nearby Paquimé—the prehistoric ruins at Casas Grandes. Most everyone in the small village is now involved with some aspect of pottery production—and their artistic skills are astonishing. The ollas are beautifully shaped and intricately painted. We were treated to a demonstration in pottery making by Jorge Quintana, one of the master potters and part owner of El Adobe Inn, and another presentation of olla painting by his daughter. As we roamed the dusty streets (no pavement is to be found) we peeked into galleries, and were invited into the homes of the residents to check out their wares. The choices were infinite and the prices very affordable. So the group shopped the day away. The meals are home-cooked at the El Adobe Inn and served family style—and all were wonderful. Oh, yes, we did some early morning birding along the river that runs through town. The birds were all familiar friends, but a beautiful sunrise, the camaraderie of the group and entertainment by one of the local dogs who accompanied us made for a pleasant start to the day.

It took a bit of planning to safely secure our precious pottery purchases in the van before Sunday morning’s departure, but then we were on our way. At Casas Grandes we took time for more birding along the Casas Grandes River and were rewarded with quite a few Wood Duck sightings, plus good views of Cassin’s Vireo and Western Wood Pewee. The huge ruins of Paquimé are, indeed, impressive, and time was spent walking along the puebloan walls—all that remains of the enormous structures that served as a hub of prehistoric life which flourished between the thirteenth and fifteenth centuries.

Now it was on to the largest black-tailed prairie dog town in North America. A side trip took us to the site east of Janos where a research station is monitoring the populations and working to preserve habitat. The little critters, however, were not cooperative and we saw only a few—no doubt because it was siesta time. But the drive along the maze of dirt roads gave us a good glimpse into the Mennonite farming communities and their neat-as-a-pin adobe homes and barns, and farmlands. We made a stop for some good Mennonite cheese at one of the many tiny queso stands on the main road.

We retraced our route to Naco, again driving through magnificent mountainous scenery and canyons along Highway 2 near the Chihuahua/Sonora boundary. A tired, but still chatting group arrived home safe and sound—thoroughly delighted with a most unusual experience and eager to tell friends to sign up next time this adventurous opportunity is announced in the Tucson Audubon Society's Vermillion Flycatcher.

Impressions of the Copper Canyon trip

By Jamie Brown

Thousands of feet beneath the canyon’s edge, the outside world disappeared. By chartered vans, our group of twelve watched pine trees disappear and Hecho Cacti emerge during the steep descent. Deep within the canyon walls, we lost sight of trains and paved roads. Tarahumara Indians, dressed in their traditional, colorful garb, walked alongside the dirt road. Squinting, one could make out tiny farms across the canyon where one could only get by foot or by animal. We had descended down majestic, copper-hued cliff walls to enter a slower, quieter world away from cities, steel, and concrete.

In October 2004, I experienced a spectacular bird watching trip in the Copper Canyon region of Mexico -- a land of breathtaking scenery, ecologically diversity, rich cultural history, and great bird watching. Needless to say, the trip surpassed any expectations. But really, how can one imagine what it is like, for example, to travel by train from just above sea level to over 8000 feet, winding slowly up cliff walls and passing through 86 tunnels? You simply have to do it.

The trip did not begin within the dramatic topography of Copper Canyon. Our first stop was the historic, colonial town of El Fuerte. Our first morning in El Fuerte involved bird watching by foot and by raft. When not strolling through tropical vegetation listening to Chachalacas or other interesting bird life, our group sat comfortably on plastic yard chairs in a large rubber raft, coursing down a voluminous, fast-moving river. As we glided down, our guides helped us spot the many species of birds waiting around each corner. A flock of Mexican Parrotlets flew overhead. Along the opposite shore, tiger herons balanced on the banks.We also spotted Grooved-billed Anis, a Northern Jacana. . . .The list goes on and on.

El Fuerte would become both the starting point and ending point for our train and van journey into the Copper Canyon region. For the next several days, we were treated to memory-making sights and experiences. These included: Ineffably dramatic topography and geology; warm hospitality, fire places, and pine forests near a high waterfall; Tarahumara Indians weaving pine needle baskets; amazed young school girls looking through a spotting scope; touring an abandoned hacienda; a curious young local who took interest in our bird watching; and of course, the bird watching.

One memorable morning, our group took a relaxing stroll from Batopilas to Satevo. As we walked, a few tourist vans passed us both ways. They had obviously checked-off the town and Mission on the itinerary and were traveling to their list’s next item. In contrast, our leisurely pace rewarded us in two ways. First, we saw new species of birds and interesting avian behavior like watching a Gray Hawk swoop into the river, snatch a fish, fly back to the bank, and begin his meal. Secondly, the end of the walk provided a magnificent site as we turned a corner. Down in the valley below stood a beautiful, centuries-old mission along the riverbanks. We were now in Satevo, a tiny town without electricity at the very end of a 6-hour drive. Here, our group enjoyed a picnic lunch on the steps of the Mission, taking in the natural scenery and historic significance of the valley.

For me, the most rewarding aspect of the trip was the way it was planned and executed. It was the paragon of traveling. We had excellent guides who knew the best local birding spots, dining and lodging facilities, and local guides. And, it was an authentic experience. Unlike being at a resort surrounded by other tourists and high walls, we were able to gain insights into the people and local cultures of the area in just a week.

Furthermore, I felt proud to be part of a Tucson Audubon Society/Nature Treks and Passages trip. Fellow travelers took interest not only the colorful and interesting avi-fauna, but also the local culture and people. Faces of members from our group lit up not just at seeing a new bird, but also by seeing locals become curious about their own extraordinary bird life. One of the members of our group even gathered addresses of people we met so that she could mail binoculars to them. Thus, in addition to the “recreation” component of the Tucson Audubon Society mission, members of our group felt personally compelled to add the “education” component by reaching out to those we encountered.

Thank you for a profound experience, Rochelle!

A Weekend trip to Kino Bay in December
By Ann Holt-Harris

I live in a town west of Chicago and as many of you former mid-westerners remember, the woods and prairies around here are very quiet in December. What a pleasure it was to get away to Bahia Kino with Tucson Audubon Society and wake up to the sounds of waves lapping the beach and hundreds of birds calling as the Double-crested Cormorants formed up in their lines to move out for the day. From the front porch of my hotel room, I could observe Willets, Western Sandpipers, and Spotted Sandpipers probing for food while Caspian, Forster’s, and Royal Terns, and Magnificent Frigatebirds flew first in one direction and then the other.

Our charming hotel overlooked a beautiful beach on the Sea of Cortez in Sonora. A large island called Isla Alcatraz directly across a shallow bay provided nesting and resting places for Mergansers, Heermann’s Gulls, Yellow-footed Gulls, Brown Boobies, Blue-footed Boobies, Peregrine Falcons, and American Oystercatchers. One afternoon, our group took a boat over to the island, landed, and combed the beach that was littered with the bleached skeletons of sea birds and beautiful spiral shells. On the trip back, three porpoises playfully followed our boat.

Driving along the road from the hotel to breakfast, occasional pools (we call them fuddles) were alive with Black-necked Stilts, Dowitchers (Long-billed or Short-billed, who can tell?), American Coots, Cattle Egrets, and Great Blue Herons. Another road, aptly named Paraiso, was lined with telephone poles, each one topped with an Osprey nest, guarded by its owner. Mangrove swamps yielded Great Blue Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Little Blue Heron, Tricolored Heron, Reddish Egret, Green Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Yellow-crowned Night Heron and White-faced Ibis in addition to Black-bellied Plover, Semi-palmated Plover, Whimbrels, Long-billed Curlews, Marbled Godwits, Ruddy Turnstones, and American Avocets.

In all, we were fortunate enough to observe 89 species of birds from the time we arrived on Friday in the late afternoon to the time we left on Sunday at lunch time.

Aside from the abundant bird life we found at Kino Bay, we also ate well. We indulged in super-fresh fish and seafood tastefully prepared as well as hearty Mexican breakfasts at local restaurants.

The Seris comprise the indigenous native tribe in the area of Kino Bay. We visited the Museum of Seri Culture to learn about the history and culture of this people. Later at a local store some of us bought baskets and ironwood carvings that Seri craftspeople make.

I highly recommend the Bahia Kino trip not only for the richness of the bird life but also for the solitude of the beaches and the opportunity to enjoy a place that has yet to be completely discovered.

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Testimonials

Review: International Birding Trip to Copper Canyon Laurel Picciurro Published in the "Vermillion Flycatcher" of Tucson Audubon Society, Volume 48, number 4, December, 2003-January, 2004

Highlights from the Tucson Audubon Society Belize-Tikal Trip, February 15-24, 2004 Jeanne Blumberg

Review: International Birding Trip to Copper Canyon
Laurel Picciurro
Published in the "Vermillion Flycatcher" of Tucson Audubon Society, Volume 48, number 4, December, 2003-January, 2004

Highlights from the Tucson Audubon Society Belize-Tikal Trip,
February 15-24, 2004
Jeanne Blumberg